A FEW MYTHS EXPLAINED.

A few myths explained

There are many aspects that can be discussed regarding golf and golf clubs.
Usually, the one that holds precedence over all others is Drivers, which is the best, the longest, the straightest, etc.
Most purchase decisions are made on the manufacturer’s marketing, Bigger Sweetspot, Longer, Most Forgiving, More Carbon, Faster Clubhead speed, and so on.
Distance Sells.
The problem with this is that most of the claims are untrue.
I am happy to explain any aspect of that statement in detail if asked but can clarify one or two to kind of whet your appetite.
Firstly the Sweet Spot. It is a point within the club head that is the center of gravity and is the size of a pinpoint it can not be made any bigger, physics won’t allow it.
The G.G. is in line with a point on the clubface and if you strike the ball on that point you will have a reasonably good result if all of the other factors regarding the strike are OK.
Miss that point and you start to lose distance and direction.
There are a couple of factors that can offset this a little, a larger M.O.I (Moment of Inertia) and a Variable Thickness Face. You thought this was simple, didn’t you?
Faster Ball Speed is sometimes related to the Spring Effect of the club face. This is another constant that can’t be changed The U.S.G.A. and the R.&A. agreed to a limit, which is referred to as the C.O.R ( Coefficient Of Restitution)  This is the time the ball can be in contact with the club face.      0.830              In its simplest terms this means that if the clubhead is traveling at 100 mph the ball can not leave the clubhead at more than 83 mph.  It is more commonly referred to these days as the C.T  (Contact time).   If it does, it would be deemed as non-conforming.
I hope you have found this interesting and I will add a few more articles as we go through the season, but as I said earlier if you have a few hours to spare………….

 

 

 


CHRISTMAS PRESENT IDEAS

Christmas Gift ideas.

Check out Nev’s Pro shop; there’s plenty of winter gear for Christmas gift ideas. Also, vouchers are available for lessons and equipment. Why not pop in and take a look at all the offers available?


Grips and why they matter.

Grips and why they matter

Grips and why they matter; well for a start they are often the most neglected part of any players equipment. You might notice during play they feel a little smooth or hard and you make a mental note to get them seen to but that’s soon forgotten as you play on, or I’ll wait till spring and get them done then, no point now, it won’t make any difference to me anyway, I’m not that good. The list can go on.

They are however your only contact with the club, a firm comfortable hold on the club is essential to play your best golf. Do you put slicks on your car for winter ? Mentioning cars, car tyres have different compounds of rubber, a few minutes watching  ‘Formula one ‘ will tell you this.

The same applies to grips. Rubber in its natural form isn’t black it’s sort of creamy as you know, so additives are used to improve this and make it tackier and more resistant to wear.

The principal additive is Carbon Black this obviously gives it the colour but it also add durability and tackiness, they use it in car tyres for the same reason, have you seen any red tyres on the road lately ? I thought not. Anyone who has the Golf Pride Multi Compound grips fitted will have noticed that the coloured section becomes harder than the rest, now you know why. Some coloured grips are OK but they often have cord in them to add traction, as I said earlier there are different additives but I tend to favour the likes of Lamkin which have a proven reputation for wear and tackiness, essentially black with a paint in-fill.

Next most important factor……….Size………yes folks it matters in grips too. Your hold on the club should be in the fingers and not too tight, important because tight grip pressure tends to lock the wrists, tense the forearms an shoot you shoulders into your ears, NOT GOOD!! Grip pressure should feel light and the key word is, ‘COMFORTABLE’, as the club is moved away from the ball grip pressure naturally increases until its maximum pressure at impact and then it releases. If you start your swing like this you will be a little freer and faster.

The idea that thin grips make you hook and fat grips make you slice is not proven conclusively and is just a popular myth, to have an effect they would have to be like pencils or cricket bat handles. Just out of interest, why are grips tapered ?……………strips of leather were wrapped around tapered hickory sticks, no other reason. You can get, and some tour players use, grips that are practically parallel. Some are now going back to grips that have a ridge down the back of the grip to fit your fingers round. Arnold Palmer used to cut wire coat hangers into lengths and secure them down the back of his grips for this purpose. I used to set mine a quarter turn from centre so that when I closed my hand the face was locked square at address, you’d be surprised what custom fitters can do for players.

The advice, clean your grips once a month with a nail brush and AJAX, rinse and dry. If you play more than once a week look to change them annually or at least the worn ones, wedges etc. On the crazy side most tour Pro’s change them every three months and one who does every three weeks.


HAVE YOU BEEN CUSTOM FITTED ?

Have you been custom fitted ?

A simple question to which a lot of people would answer yes to, especially those who have been to fitting days or discount stores or even on line sites etc.

Hmm?

There are however some variables which should have been considered, see how many you were made aware of.

1 Clubhead loft angle.

2 Clubhead lie angle.

3 Clubhead  horizontal bulge. ( Driver. woods and some Hybrids )

4 Clubhead vertical roll.  ( Driver, woods and some hybrids)

5 Clubhead sole angle. ( Irons and wedges only )

6 Cluhead face angle,  ( Driver, woods and some hybrids )

7 Clubhead hosel offset.

8 Clubhead face, MOI, centre of gravity design.

9 Shaft flex.

10 Shaft toeque.

11 Shaft weight.

12 Shaft spine alignment.

13 Shaft bend profile.

14 Grip size.

15 Grip weight.

16 Grip material composition and design.

17 Club length.

18 Club swingweight.

19 Club total weight.

20 Club weight distribution/ balance point.

21 Set make up.

These are the variables that should be considered and applied to the fitting process.

I will outline the fitting sequence  in my next post .